NYFW Series (2/3) : The Row, Opening Ceremony, Michael Kors

Taking place on the 35th floor of the Seagram Building designed by German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The maxim "less is more" applies yet again to this lineup by The Row; true to the Olsen's own minimal style. Their fabrics are the epitome of exceptional taste. Gone are the days of slim fitting tailored silhouettes as The Row outsize proportions cocooning models in chocolate-coloured Leather and double faced Cashmere. Hands are concealed buried beneath trumpet sleeves and slouchy pockets of androgynous double-breasted jackets. In true NYC style the collection is business-like and Wall Street-esque however not a brief case in sight, replaced by the classic croc bag turned sports duffle.

The genius' behind OC Carol Lim and Humberto Leon debuted their Fall RTW collection in the form of an exhibition of their muse's own art. Regular Opening Ceremony collaborator Spike Jonze, said to be the inspiration behind the collection, was on hand to present the images he had directed and photographed. The collection was nostalgic of indie rock, early Sonic Youth tours, BMX racing and old skater zines.

Opening Ceremony stuck to the seasons big hits e.g. wide leg silhouettes and Camel coloured pieces however it was their outrageous nostalgic prints are what separated OC from the rest. This collection was the ultimate ode to Jonze's work with the garments featuring his own prints of cult heroines Björk, Drew Barrymore and Chloë Sevigny.

In this collection Michael Kors described his fall collection as "opulent restraint." He translates traditional masculine pieces to create the ultimate hybrid gender yin-yang crossover. Admiral coats, trench capes, oxford brogues, tweeds and elements of tuxedo all traditionally male staples - however Kors reworks these pieces to create a look that almost channels an ultrachic Sherlock Holmes. Nonetheless Kors noted, “whether it was Wallace Simpson back in the Thirties, Babe Paley at her height, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. All of these women understood this idea, they knew how to play with the yin and the yang.”

Minus the luxe peacock blue; Kors' colour palette is subtle and earthy with the blue providing an injection of vibrancy through breathtaking furs and bright paisley silks. Fur accents and embellished gold detailing gives Michael Kors the "opulence" whereas his adapted menswear silhouette give the "restraint." Opulent Restraint. I love it.
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